Angel Falls

So there I was staring at Jimmy Angel's twin engined Flamingo type aircraft sitting in front of the Ciudad Bolivar's airport. Jimmy Angel back in 1937 while searching for that gold laden vein of ore  rediscovered Angel Falls for the modern world. Of course the members of the Pemon the indigenous people living there always knew it was there. Jimmy tried to safely land atop the vast Auyantepui and was successful, but found after he nose dived his aircraft into the soft peat that takeoff was next to impossible. After the crash, he his wife and two companions began an 11 day odyssey with very limited supplies.

They had to scale down from the heights of Auyantepui. He and his companions made it, but his aircraft stayed atop until the 1970's and the falls were named after him.

Auyantepui is situated some 8600 feet above sea level, covers approximately 270 square miles and is the birthplace of Angel Falls. The term Tepui in Pemon means mountain and the Tepuis can harbor powerful mischievous entities or spirits that command respect and fear.  

The entire area was designated as Canaima National Park in 1962. It comprises 30,000 square kilometers and is the size of Switzerland.  Canaima is a word of Pemon origin and is typically associated with death or disease. When the indigenous Pemon die or become ill they say it is due to Canaima. The Tepuis provide the source of the many great rivers that flow through Venezuela. 

The Orinoco (which has the largest delta in the world flowing into the Atlantic) and the Caroni River and its basin which supply Venezuela with 72% of its hydroelectric power. Many smaller rivers also flow from the Tepuis creating a vast network of watershed areas allowing Venezuela to be considered one of the worlds top bird watching destinations.

To visit Angel Falls you have to board a single engined Piper or Beech craft and fly for about an hour to reach the village of Canaima. There are no roads to this village and actually not much development either. Canaima is a Pemon village and they seem to have the rights for the business side of all tourist activities. 

You spend your first night in Canaima and have a chance to see the beautiful lagoon that the village is situated on. 

Facing the lagoon are 5 or 6 waterfalls that at the time we visited were flowing exuberantly to say the least. Your guides take you over and around a series of undeveloped trails pointing out flora, fauna and the marching venomous black ants underfoot. You only get a fever for 24 hours, so there really isn't anything to worry about. We stopped by a termite dwelling and our guide opened up the top with a stick, stuck his hand in and started eating them alive. I had told the other members of my group that I would also partake but when the time came I had really lost my appetite. Of course I was coerced into keeping my word and placed my hand into the hole and came out with 20 or so small frantic termites. I quickly got them into my mouth and began chewing before they could crawl out. They were absolutely delightful and had the flavor of mint. 

On the side. The water in the rivers surrounding us is brown and  laced with a high content of tannins that work as a natural mosquito larvae killer. There are three different colored rivers in South America. Clear and originating in the Andes, typically called young rivers, black which are heavily fortified with decaying organic material and the muddy brown ones that have sediment and also organic material. I even saw a red one recently flowing over a bed of Jasper.

So on we continued not really knowing what lay in store for us around the next turn. We began descending in between two of the waterfalls and came out along the bottom of one called Sapo Falls or Frog Falls. We were told at this point to change into our swim suits. Everyone drew a quick gasp when they saw my black  speedo, which recently had been purchased used from a Venezuelan sailor. I took that as a sign of approval as we lined up on a trail abutting the side of the falls. 

There was one rope to hold on to, lots of vines and roots and many boulders to work around. The path led directly behind the falls. At first the water came as a light mist changing to a spray, then it became a torrent and then it became dark, very dark, with water hitting you from all directions. You struggled to keep moving forward pulling yourself along with the rope. The rocks on your right and the torrent of water touching your left shoulder. The air was being sucked out by the force of the water all around us. Needless to say we made it but everyone said that not knowing where the middle was each had considered turning back at one point or another. Afterwards the best way I could think of describing it was a cross between being in a earthquake and a submarine when the hull bursts. It was a fabulous experience. Here is a short video of the falls from the front side.

The following day our group of ten, a family of 5 from France, 3 Brits and a woman from Switzerland all climbed to a point on the river above the falls we had explored the previous day. There waiting for us was an expertly hewn log boat boasting a 48 HP Yamaha outboard. Our bags were wrapped and stored and we set out on our four hour journey up the river Carao.

I was placed in the front I think because being the tallest they figured I could block the water from hitting the other passengers. Dutifully before leaving I stood and announced that no matter what happened up river,  they all had my permission, if things took a turn for the worse, to eat me. After seeing me in that speedo the previous day several passengers commented that I didn't have a lot of meat on my bones. Well, anyhow I think some of the group were relieved that they now had an additional source of protein other than the few chickens we were bringing along.

We departed and didn't go far before we had a first portage. The rapids were too severe to allow us to travel this part of the trip in the boat. It was raining and we completed the half an hour portage without a problem. Up the river we went. The Tepuis rising majestically around us. The river snaked back and forth as the motorman expertly navigated us thru rapids and up cataracts, around hidden rocks all the while the boat slowly filled with water.

Angel Falls or Kerepakupai Meru as it is known to the Pemon was suddenly in view as we rounded one last bend. 

The boat stopped on a rock pile in the middle of the river, we all got off and recrossed the river on foot. There an unmarked trail led off into the jungle. For one  hour you climb up and up in one of the densest jungles I have walked in. I was beginning to appreciate more and more the daunting task that Jimmy Angel faced 73 years prior. Over roots, around boulders, thru small streams we climbed until finally the trail ended and you scampered on top of a rock viewpoint. No railings, no benches just about as natural as it could be. The ten of us were the only ones there and all of us fell silent.

Angel Falls at 980 meters (3215 feet) is the tallest multi drop waterfall in the world. Kaietur Falls in Guyana is the tallest single drop. Our visit was notable for the absence of any clouds and other visitors. The falls are so high that the water is a mist as it reaches the ground. We could feel it blowing onto us. All of us sat quietly and contemplated the sheer majesty of what we were seeing. It was incredible.

We returned to the river and found our encampment for the night.

We had toilets an outdoor shower and our choice of hammocks, all under a roof to protect us from the rain. 

The next day we shot down the river at twice the speed and we actually had a wetter ride back. It was an incredible three days that I would love to repeat. So if you ever have a chance, for 300 or so bucks, including your flight, meals and accommodations you can spend a while exploring one of our planets most awe-inspiring places.